Rose Cologne

By admin  

Estee Lauder line of fragrances have all along been one of my favorite. This article contain some short excerpt on a few of the highly recommended series of perfume.

Knowing (mossy rose)

Of all the big fruity roses from the seventies and eighties, Knowing is perhaps the most polished and most wearable. At the time that synthetic fruity rose materials like damascenes and damascenones had changed the landscape of rose perfumes, making them bigger, brighter, stronger, practically glow-in-the-dark. However, the result were striking but exhausting in their power. Knowing (1988) came late in the game and learned the lessons of its ancestors: it piles on the mossy, woody stuff and let the pink simply peek out. Worn in small doses, it is just right.

Alliage (powdery green)

The 1972 version of Alliage is an anisic rose-and-vetiver fragrance that feel dry and powdery, and is the first sports fragrance that is marketed by Estee Lauder, since it smells logically inconsistent with perspiration. Instead of feeling fresh, sharp and vegetal, the original Alliage smells chalky and bittersweet, with a poisonous, cold, shadowed character, reminiscent sometimes of dark chocolate, sometimes of old wood. The fragrance today is less intensely bitter herbal, less powdery, a touch more floral but still very good.

Azuree (citrus leather)

Azuree is a grand confident leather from 1969 by Bernard Chant, creator of Cabochard and Aromatics Elixir, with some of the surprisingly persistent lemony-woody sunshine of Monsieur Balmain and a soft, dusty, almost grimy leather-chypre heart as comfortable as an old work glove, a fragrance now as good as it has ever been and is just about as good as it gets.

Beautiful (classic rose)

Beautiful (1985) has a classic profile of a rich, tobacco-tinged rose and underneath the very sweetness, is a mossy chypre base of more depth and complexity than usual, pairing sweet amber with an intensely vegetal green. It also has a very modern feel, with a bright, herbal, woody radiance that broadcasts an attractive low hum all rounds. Unfortunately, it smell a little dated that is heavier and less legible than current fragrances, but so far has been successful in maintaining it this way. It is due for an upgrade.

Beyond Paradise (symphonic floral)

Beyond Paradise is a result of the many mastery approximation (Tommy Girl, high noon and J’Adore, sunset) by Calice Becker that has hits to perfection the dappled, reflecting the fresh light of early morning shinning on the sort of impossible garden that one would have seen in visions and describe in detail. It has inherited the virtues of the rosy, grassy freshness of lily of the valley, the rasp of lily proper, the mushroom note of gardenia, the lemon of magnolia, the banana of ylang-ylang, the deep wood velvet of violets, the boozy sweetness of rose and the soapy edge of cyclamen that achieved a graceful arc from top note to drydown.

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Rose Cologne
Rose Cologne

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