Ermenegildo Zegna

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Where are Armani, Canali, Ermenegildo Zegna and Gucci in the league of mens suit makers?

Was wondering what the quality, style and reputation of these mens suit makers is having just bought a suit from each of these houses?

First question: are you referring to Armani Collezioni (white label) or Giorgio Armani (black label)? In terms of prestige (and pretty much cost…), from highest to lowest we have:

1.Giorgio Armani Black label
2. Ermenegildo Zegna
3. Armani Collezioni
4. Canali
5. Gucci

However, I would personally say Ermenegildo Zegna is the best of the brands that you mention. Zegna is one of the world’s leading weavers of fine wools, competing mainly with a lanificio (wool mill) called Loro Piana. Of these suit makers, only Zegna has regular manufacturing of the objectively highest quality suits, with Made to Measure (su misura) options including handmade buttonholes, hand pick-stitching, and truly beautiful buffalo horn and precious nacre buttons. Of course, Giorgio Armani has the “hand made to measure” service as well, but I would say you get superior quality fabric, workmanship, fit, and price with Zegna over GA.

Giorgio Armani black label is a fused canvas constructed suit (and same with Armani Collezioni). This is the cheapest method of giving body to the suit jacket, although if you want Giorgio Armani’s signature natural shoulder silhouette, cardigan-like drape and somewhat atypical synthetic fabrics, you can go no other than the Giorgio Armani boutique. Those ready-made suits are usually $3,500 – $5,000.

Canali does make some suits in Italy, but it is mainly (if not completely) machine done. The fabrics are okay, but definitely not always as good as Zegna’s.

Gucci? I heard that in fact they outsource some (if not all) of their suit production to Zegna factories. In fact, Zegna also has a manufacturing deal with the Armani Corporation for manufacturing and distributing some of the Armani Collezioni line.

You want more information? Well, I would say you picked some very well known and reputable suit makers. If you have the cash, you can buy a suit from any of these folks, and receive high-end service while purchasing your garments, and look very good. But if what you really want is a truly superior suit, one that most CEOs likely do not purchase because they are so exclusive and expensive, then you must turn to the brands that only the wealthiest elite patronize, for example, Brioni. Or for similar quality do the top-of-the-line Zegna su misura service. In fact, Brioni likely purchases some of their finest fabric from Zegna wool mills.

And then again, if what you really want is a great fitting suit, with the exact details that you desire, and truly great fabric, there is probably a custom suit maker / tailor in your area. They will likely be able to construct a CUSTOM handmade suit for you starting at around $600 – $1200. Compare that to the machine-made suits from Canali, Armani Collezioni, the ready-to-wear Ermenegildo Zegna, etc which cost about $2,000 off the rack…

Ermenegildo Zegna

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